Rock Climbing: Techniques for Climbing Faster

Summary

In this article, we explore the techniques used by elite climbers to improve their speed when climbing a route. We observe the climbing styles of different climbers, including Jordan Fishman and Alex Honnold, who use explosive strength, muscle memory, and confidence to climb faster. We also discuss the importance of knowing the route and holds to help climbers move faster without thinking about footholds. The Rez move, which involves bypassing a hold, is used by some climbers to shave off time and flow better through the next moves. Overall, the article highlights the importance of technique, knowledge of the route, and confidence in climbing faster.

The Rise of Speed Climbing
Climbing Techniques for Speed Climbing
The Importance of Knowing the Route
The Rez Move
Speed Climbing Outdoors
Conclusion

The Rise of Speed Climbing

Rock climbing is gaining popularity, with indoor gyms opening up all around the country. In 2020, it will be an official sport at the Olympics consisting of three events: lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. Speed climbing involves climbing a 15-meter wall as fast as possible, with standardized holds in the exact same position along the route every time. The world record for speed climbing is 5.48 seconds, and it is considered almost impossible to climb the wall in five seconds flat. Climbing fast requires a step-by-step procedure and biomechanics, and a standardized route has been around for only a few years.

Climbing Techniques for Speed Climbing

A two-time national champion, Jordan Fishman, and Alex Honnold, a speed climber of a different sort, joined the writer to try speed climbing. The writer took more than a minute to climb the wall, while Honnold climbed it in 10.98 seconds. Honnold relies on his strength, confidence, and footwork to climb faster. Fishman, who knows the route by heart, uses explosive strength and muscle memory to climb faster and bypasses a hold to save time. The start of the climb is crucial to maintaining momentum, and climbers need to use their legs to push themselves up the wall. Climbers also need to use their hips to shift their weight and reach for the next hold.

The Importance of Knowing the Route

Knowing the route and holds can help climbers move faster without thinking about footholds. Climbers can also use their peripheral vision to see the next hold and anticipate the next move. The writer notes that climbers should be aware of their body position and footwork to maintain balance and avoid slipping. Climbers should also be aware of their breathing and heart rate, as speed climbing is an anaerobic activity that can be done in short bursts of six seconds.

The Rez Move

The Rez move, which involves bypassing a hold, is used by some climbers to shave off time and flow better through the next moves. The move requires climbers to use their momentum to skip a hold and grab the next one. The Rez move can save valuable seconds and help climbers maintain their speed and momentum.

Speed Climbing Outdoors

Speed climbing outdoors requires precision and smoothness, unlike indoor climbing where there is no risk. Professional climbers such as Hans Florine have set records in climbing big walls. Florine demonstrates climbing techniques on a crack wall that simulates the granite found on the nose route. Climbers need to use their fingers and hands to grip the rock and their feet to push themselves up the wall.

Conclusion

In conclusion, speed climbing requires a combination of explosive strength, muscle memory, and confidence. Knowing the route and holds can help climbers move faster without thinking about footholds. The Rez move can save valuable seconds and help climbers maintain their speed and momentum. Climbing outdoors requires precision and smoothness, and climbers need to use their fingers, hands, and feet to grip the rock and push themselves up the wall. With the rise of speed climbing, we can expect to see more climbers pushing the limits of what is possible.