The Secrets of Speed Climbing Revealed: Strategies, Techniques and Mindsets

Summary

Speed climbing is a challenging sport that requires both mental and physical strength. This article explores the nuances of speed climbing, including techniques, style, and strategy, as well as providing insights from experienced climbers, coaches and researchers.

Introduction
The Importance of Precision and Smoothness
Indoor Speed Climbing vs Outdoor Climbing
The Impact of Wall Texture on Climbers’ Performance
The Potential for Evolution and Change
Insights from Experienced Climbers
Conclusion

Introduction

What exactly is speed climbing? The premise of the sport is pretty simple: to climb a designated route up a wall as quickly as possible. In 2020, speed climbing will make its debut as an official sport in the Olympics, with lead climbing and bouldering being the other two events. Climbing a speed wall in five seconds flat is almost impossible, yet the current world record for climbing a 15-meter wall stands at a remarkable 5.48 seconds. So, what’s the secret to climbing so fast?

The Importance of Precision and Smoothness

The style with which a climber climbs the wall can determine how much time they take to reach the top. Smearing is a technique of putting a foot directly on the wall to save time. Elite speed climbers bypass some holds and use barn doors to maintain their momentum and fly upwards. However, just relying on power won’t make you the fastest climber. In fact, precision and smoothness are more important than explosive strength. Jordan Fishman, a two-time national champion, lacks explosive strength but relies on explosive speed and muscle memory to blast himself up the wall. The goal of a speed climber is to make as few movements as possible while maintaining their momentum.

Indoor Speed Climbing vs Outdoor Climbing

Speed climbing on artificial walls indoors is different from outdoor speed climbing. Artificial walls are typically smoother and have a uniform texture, making it easier to climb, whereas outdoor walls vary tremendously in texture depending on the type of rock formation. Climbing outdoor walls can be unpredictable and challenging because of its varying texture, whereas indoor walls provide a consistent surface for climbers to rely on.

The Impact of Wall Texture on Climbers’ Performance

The texture of the wall can make a huge difference in a climber’s performance. The smoother the wall, the easier it is to climb. Moreover, when the wall has a uniform texture, climbers can predict where they need to go next rather than spending valuable seconds feeling around for the next hold. The texture of the wall plays an important role in climbers’ strategy.

The Potential for Evolution and Change

Speed climbing is still a young sport, with the standardized route of speed climbing in the Olympics being around only for a few years. This means that there is still a lot of room for evolution and change. While we may see some consistency in the techniques climbers use, there will always be opportunities for climbers to innovate and improve their times.

Insights from Experienced Climbers

We spoke with a few experienced climbers to get their insights on what makes speed climbing successful. Colin Duffy, the current U.S. Youth Olympic Champion, emphasizes the importance of mental strength in speed climbing. He believes that “-climbing, in general, is tons more mental than physical-” and that keeping a clear mind is crucial to avoid mistakes that may cost valuable seconds. Sierra Blair-Coyle, a professional rock climber, emphasizes the importance of technique in speed climbing. She emphasizes that “-speed climbing is very technique-driven-” and encourages climbers to experiment with different techniques to see what works best for them.

Conclusion

Speed climbing is a challenging and exciting sport that has surged in popularity in recent years. Climbers need to be both mentally and physically tough to perform at their best. Precise and smooth movements, the right technique, and a consistent wall texture all play important roles in speed climbing performance. Whether indoor or outdoor, speed climbing will continue to challenge climbers, present new opportunities for innovation, and push the limits of what can be achieved.